not drinking poison in paris
a wine blog
12 July 2017
a farewell to meat: aux deux amis primeur, 75011
When I first heard that 11ème wine bar Aux Deux Amis proprietor David Loyola had taken on the lease for a large adjacent space on rue Ob...
06 July 2017
the île de porquerolles: domaine de l'île, domaine perzinksy & domaine de la courtade
I sometimes worry I come across as too principled . I so rarely get invited on press junkets. I suspect many PR people imagine me to be a...
19 June 2017
n.d.p. in lyon: le troisième fleuve, 69009
A few Saturdays ago my friend N and I found ourselves staggering north in Lyon after a lunch at Café Comptoir Abel ,* where the greatest ...
13 June 2017
n.d.p. in lyon: brasserie georges, 69002
To recommend a restaurant on the basis of anything other than food, service, or wine has always seemed very foolish, like recommending a ...
08 June 2017
deck & donohue la terrasse at bob's bake shop, 75018
As of early May, Montreuil micro-brewery Deck & Donohue has teamed up with 18ème-arrondissement vegetarian canteen Bob's Bake ...
27 May 2017
pork universe: l'avant comptoir du marché, 75006
I stand in awe of the sheer cheek of Yves Camdeborde's L'Avant Comptoir wine bars. Camdeborde had the insight to reproduce San Se...
02 May 2017
c'est extra: le bel ordinaire, 75010
The latter-day service-industry explosion of Paris' 10ème arrondissement is remarkable for its enthusiastically globalized aesthetics...
27 April 2017
out in the street: vignes, 75019
Vignes' opening party, before the terrace seating was installed. The great legacy of the cave-à-manger neologism has been to turn...
25 April 2017
don't change: osteria ferrara, 75011
The similarities with between the restaurant Sicilian chef Fabrizio Ferrara opened last fall - Osteria Ferrara - and his former restaur...
30 March 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: gilles paris, chiroubles
I harvested a few days with Chiroubles-based natural winemaker Gilles Paris back in 2015. It was a disorienting experience. It was the...
23 March 2017
small stakes: le desnoyez, 75020
A few years ago during the Loire tasting salons I had a brief but memorable conversation with a friend who was then in the initial stages...
28 February 2017
hot bath: le grand bain, 75020
Chef Edward Delling-Williams is a key figure in the diaspora of mostly-Anglophone chefs emanating from the kitchen of restaurant Au Passa...
20 February 2017
not drinking poison in nice: la merenda
The Native Companion and I were in Nice for New Year's. Before we returned to Paris I was able to convince her to submit to the r...
10 February 2017
n.d.p. in maconnais: château des rontets, fuissé
The forecast called for rain, but my friend E and I had passed a perfectly calm, sunny day visiting winemakers around Saint-Amour last J...
31 January 2017
in with the old: chez la vieille, 75001
I have never quite understood Daniel Rose ' conservative streak. I'm too young to remember the initial, bare-bones Spring in the ...
16 January 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: nicolas dubost, saint-germain-sur-l'arbesle
"It's crazy, how many young winemakers are setting up in Beaujolais," muses southern Beaujolais winemaker Nicolas Dubost , ...
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