not drinking poison in paris
a wine blog
24 April 2018
a divorce with la vieille
Well, that was quick. As of earlier this month, I've left the manager and wine director position I held for the past eight months at ...
29 November 2017
at home chez la vieille
Early the other evening a client came into the restaurant and ordered a glass of Beaujolais primeur. There were few other clients at ...
17 August 2017
n.d.p. in marseille: les buvards, 13002
For a number of reasons, only one of which was my lack of money, the Native Companion and I wound up in Marseille for a micro-vacation ea...
09 August 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: sebastien congretel, régnié-durette
The Beaujolais is barren for good restaurants, and the village of Régnié-Durette is no exception. Any business in Régnié-Durette has the...
12 July 2017
a farewell to meat: super, 75011
UPDATE Aug. 2nd, 2017: David Loyola tells me he has named, or renamed, his primeur "SUPER," whereas until now everyone had refe...
06 July 2017
the île de porquerolles: domaine de l'île, domaine perzinksy & domaine de la courtade
I sometimes worry I come across as too principled . I so rarely get invited on press junkets. I suspect many PR people imagine me to be a...
19 June 2017
n.d.p. in lyon: le troisième fleuve, 69009
A few Saturdays ago my friend N and I found ourselves staggering north in Lyon after a lunch at Café Comptoir Abel ,* where the greatest ...
13 June 2017
n.d.p. in lyon: brasserie georges, 69002
To recommend a restaurant on the basis of anything other than food, service, or wine has always seemed very foolish, like recommending a ...
08 June 2017
deck & donohue la terrasse at bob's bake shop, 75018
As of early May, Montreuil micro-brewery Deck & Donohue has teamed up with 18ème-arrondissement vegetarian canteen Bob's Bake ...
27 May 2017
pork universe: l'avant comptoir du marché, 75006
I stand in awe of the sheer cheek of Yves Camdeborde's L'Avant Comptoir wine bars. Camdeborde had the insight to reproduce San Se...
02 May 2017
c'est extra: le bel ordinaire, 75010
The latter-day service-industry explosion of Paris' 10ème arrondissement is remarkable for its enthusiastically globalized aesthetics...
27 April 2017
out in the street: vignes, 75019
Vignes' opening party, before the terrace seating was installed. The great legacy of the cave-à-manger neologism has been to turn...
25 April 2017
don't change: osteria ferrara, 75011
The similarities with between the restaurant Sicilian chef Fabrizio Ferrara opened last fall - Osteria Ferrara - and his former restaur...
30 March 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: gilles paris, chiroubles
I harvested a few days with Chiroubles-based natural winemaker Gilles Paris back in 2015. It was a disorienting experience. It was the...
23 March 2017
small stakes: le desnoyez, 75020
A few years ago during the Loire tasting salons I had a brief but memorable conversation with a friend who was then in the initial stages...
28 February 2017
hot bath: le grand bain, 75020
Chef Edward Delling-Williams is a key figure in the diaspora of mostly-Anglophone chefs emanating from the kitchen of restaurant Au Passa...
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