not drinking poison in paris
a wine blog
02 May 2017
c'est extra: le bel ordinaire, 75010
The latter-day service-industry explosion of Paris' 10ème arrondissement is remarkable for its enthusiastically globalized aesthetics...
27 April 2017
out in the street: vignes, 75019
Vignes' opening party, before the terrace seating was installed. The great legacy of the cave-à-manger neologism has been to turn...
25 April 2017
don't change: osteria ferrara, 75011
The similarities with between the restaurant Sicilian chef Fabrizio Ferrara opened last fall - Osteria Ferrara - and his former restaur...
30 March 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: gilles paris, chiroubles
I harvested a few days with Chiroubles-based natural winemaker Gilles Paris back in 2015. It was a disorienting experience. It was the...
23 March 2017
small stakes: le desnoyez, 75020
A few years ago during the Loire tasting salons I had a brief but memorable conversation with a friend who was then in the initial stages...
28 February 2017
hot bath: le grand bain, 75020
Chef Edward Delling-Williams is a key figure in the diaspora of mostly-Anglophone chefs emanating from the kitchen of restaurant Au Passa...
20 February 2017
not drinking poison in nice: la merenda
The Native Companion and I were in Nice for New Year's. Before we returned to Paris I was able to convince her to submit to the r...
10 February 2017
n.d.p. in maconnais: château des rontets, fuissé
The forecast called for rain, but my friend E and I had passed a perfectly calm, sunny day visiting winemakers around Saint-Amour last J...
31 January 2017
in with the old: chez la vieille, 75001
I have never quite understood Daniel Rose ' conservative streak. I'm too young to remember the initial, bare-bones Spring in the ...
16 January 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: nicolas dubost, saint-germain-sur-l'arbesle
"It's crazy, how many young winemakers are setting up in Beaujolais," muses southern Beaujolais winemaker Nicolas Dubost , ...
05 December 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: romain des grottes, saint-etienne-des-ouillières
The man standing there with the huge elderflower bush in his vines is Romain des Grottes. He's a métayer , or sharecropper, working...
17 November 2016
yann bertrand's 1st beaujolais nouveau: "ptit bouchon"
Yann Bertrand with his demi-muid's of Beaujolais primeur Fleurie's Yann Bertrand made a Beaujolais Nouveau this year from fr...
10 November 2016
beaujolais harvests 2016
Max Breton's team at the end of day in his old vines at Saint Joseph in Morgon. Anything I post on the blog right now will rightful...
27 October 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: christophe pacalet, cercié
Négoçiants tend to suffer from an enthusiasm gap among wine drinkers. Compared with the vigneron who grows the grapes he or she turns int...
11 October 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: sylvère trichard & elodie bouvard (séléné), blacé
I first heard of Blacé-based Beaujolais vigneron Sylvère Trichard while putting together Paris By Mouth's annual " Beaujola...
09 September 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jérome balmet, vaux-en-beaujolais
The tiny cellar space that Balmet shared with his father until this year. Conventional wisdom of Beaujolais geography places the high...
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