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22 October 2013
yonne bike trip: alice et olivier de moor, courgis
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Alice and Olivier de Moor were the main reason I'd long been keen to do a bike trip around Chablis. Along with their neighbor in ...
18 October 2013
yonne bike trip: le bistrot des grands crus, chablis
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Here's a hoary chestnut of dining wisdom: when choosing amongst countryside bistrots, one doesn't often go wrong sticking to tho...
14 October 2013
yonne bike trip: vincent dauvissat, chablis
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It's poor form to be late to an appointment with any vigneron. But anyone familiar with unimpeachable greatness of Vincent Dauviss...
08 October 2013
authenticity unnecessary : buvette, 75009
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By the time my friend Camille Fourmont opened her Buvette in the 11ème this past spring, rumours had already spread that American ...
3 comments:
23 September 2013
glory days : artisan, 75009
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When a restaurant or bar really blows me away, I think I instinctively look for ways to compare it to Bruce Springsteen . It's just ...
3 comments:
14 September 2013
yonne bike trip: l'atélier à jean, vincelottes
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If one disembarks the train from Paris at Vincelles and travels in the direction of Irancy, one crosses the Yonne into another blip-size...
1 comment:
04 September 2013
yonne bike trip: domaine colinot, irancy
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My friends and I wound up at Domaine Colinot kind of by default, as we passed through Irancy on the bike trip we took this past ...
02 September 2013
idiot simple : grillé, 75002
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If a successful restaurant concept aims to serve cuisine that inspires respect for its chefs, then, conversely, the hallmark of a succes...
28 August 2013
london calling : the sunken chip, 75010
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Ever since moving to Paris I've found London frightful. I think this is because I've come to define quality of life in terms of ...
1 comment:
26 August 2013
cuttlefish water ? : la régalade conservatoire, 75009
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My chef friend G's last night in town the other evening unfortunately coincided with what you might call the Mariana Trench of Aug...
4 comments:
22 August 2013
n.d.p. in champagne: restaurant l'étoile, troyes
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It was perhaps unfair of me, in discussing cave-à-manger pioneer Aux Crieurs de Vin , to refer to Troyes as a one-bistrot town. For the ...
19 August 2013
n.d.p. in champagne: aux crieurs de vin au marché des halles, troyes
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Troyes is not unusual among French towns for being home to only one terrific informal restaurant. I understand that similar culinary e...
16 August 2013
n.d.p. in champagne: aux crieurs de vin (bistrot), troyes
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Just as the town of Troyes in the Aube can be said to contain a history of France - from its origins as a Roman settlement, to its ro...
12 August 2013
n.d.p. in champagne: emmanuel lassaigne of champagne jacques lassaigne, montgueux
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I just got back from a lovely trip to Troyes this past weekend, which reminded me that I never wrote anything about the lovely trip to T...
08 August 2013
more to come : restaurant encore, 75009
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The recent opening of charming 9ème market-menu restaurant Encore signals the inevitable outright codification of two recent Paris rest...
3 comments:
06 August 2013
sandwiches du terroir : u spuntinu, 75009
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I had a mildly embarrassing moment the other day at U Spuntinu , the colourful Corsican épicerie I've been frequenting for sandwich...
2 comments:
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