not drinking poison in paris

a wine blog

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23 December 2013

yonne bike trip: nicolas vauthier / vini viti vinci, avallon

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I'll never forget how Le Verre Volé 's Cyril Breward once described Nicholas Vauthier's range of low-sulfur north-Burgundi...
18 December 2013

changing the landscape: bistro bellet, 75010

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It took me a few years in Paris to appreciate how a single restaurant can cause a seismic shift in the city's dining landscape. Plac...
3 comments:
16 December 2013

yonne bike trip: le bougainville, vézelay

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Deciding where to dine in Vézelay was an easy decision. We cased restaurant's lining the town's one road and lumped for  Le Boug...
1 comment:
11 December 2013

nice work if you can get it

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For once, I've been writing enough bits and bobs for other publications to warrant a brief round-up post. - For PUNCH magazine in...
2 comments:
09 December 2013

kid stuff: 58 qualité street, 75005

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My friend Christophe Philippe, the demure and talented chef of Restaurant Christophe in the 5ème arrondissement, has misgivings about h...
06 December 2013

where the treasure is : la cave des papilles, 75014

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On the regrettably rare occasions I find myself strolling around Paris' 14ème arrondissement, I take a great deal of pleasure in the...
04 December 2013

yonne bike trip: le vezelien, vezelay

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I pretty much fell in love with Vezelay and its lowland twin Saint-Pere in the course of the bike trip through the Yonne back in June....
26 November 2013

a landmark : chez michel, 75010

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An address that often seems to get overlooked or underrated in the perennial 'Best Bistrot' features these days is chef Thierry ...
2 comments:
13 November 2013

an oyster bar for a better paris: clamato, 75011

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I squirmed with embarrassment reading a recent NYTimes opinion piece bemoaning " How Hipsters Ruined Paris ." Not because I co...
3 comments:
04 November 2013

at my most parisian : la cagouille, 74014

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I can pinpoint the precise moment at which, despite language struggles and disgust with service norms and volcanic resentment of patrici...
2 comments:
01 November 2013

yonne bike trip: le pot d'étain, isle-sur-serein

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Isle-sur-Serein isn't the most picturesque village in the Yonne. That honor might go to Noyers, a medieval town containing a supe...
22 October 2013

yonne bike trip: alice et olivier de moor, courgis

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Alice and Olivier de Moor  were the main reason I'd long been keen to do a bike trip around Chablis. Along with their neighbor in ...
18 October 2013

yonne bike trip: le bistrot des grands crus, chablis

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Here's a hoary chestnut of dining wisdom: when choosing amongst countryside bistrots, one doesn't often go wrong sticking to tho...
14 October 2013

yonne bike trip: vincent dauvissat, chablis

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It's poor form to be late to an appointment with any vigneron. But anyone familiar with unimpeachable greatness of Vincent Dauviss...
08 October 2013

authenticity unnecessary : buvette, 75009

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By the time my friend Camille Fourmont opened her  Buvette  in the 11ème this past spring, rumours had already spread that American ...
3 comments:
23 September 2013

glory days : artisan, 75009

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When a restaurant or bar really blows me away, I think I instinctively look for ways to compare it to Bruce Springsteen . It's just ...
3 comments:
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