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29 April 2014
worth the wait: le servan, 75011
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Two observations on restaurant service, following a meal at Le Servan , the spiffing new restaurant on rue Saint Maur by the charming a...
24 April 2014
sancerre bike trip: sebastien riffault, sury-en-vaux
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Twenty minutes into our bike trip around Sancerre last July, as we wended south along the left bank of the Loire, the rear innertube of ...
3 comments:
21 April 2014
flock here: the green goose, 75011
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It goes without saying that Irish culture doesn't lack for originality or regional nuance. But a history of economic subjugation and...
15 April 2014
return to sender: blue valentine, 75011
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At the restaurant I used to manage in Los Angeles, we had an amusing problem. One of the owners was friends with R.E.M. , and accordingl...
3 comments:
11 April 2014
worlds collide: les trois 8, 75020
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One day I'm going to walk into Le Meurice and stand for an hour on one foot. Then I'll bow and the press will take photos and I...
2 comments:
07 April 2014
from the ground up: yard, 75011
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A few weeks ago I organised a hilarious and, thankfully, thereafter utterly unrepresentative meal for a visiting friend at Père Lachaise...
1 comment:
31 March 2014
managing expectations: les enfants rouges, 75003
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Chefs deserve our pity. Critics dissect their every gesture in a search for novelty that is, through no fault of chefs, mostly futile. D...
4 comments:
27 March 2014
bonne chance: lucien la chance, 75017
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A familiar quandary arises when discussing places like charming new 17ème arrondissement wine bar Lucien La Chance . I want to encourage...
24 March 2014
heaven is a place...: café trama, 75006
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In the course of an otherwise friendly conversation the other day, a chef-restaurateur I know asked me in exasperation whether Paris con...
2 comments:
19 March 2014
a higher pursuit: chez aline, 75011
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Chez Aline ,* the thimble-sized lunch spot run out of a converted horse butchery by well-traveled chef Delphine Zampetti, has been open ...
17 March 2014
somm needed? : restaurant roca, 75017
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The friends I brought to Roca during Fashion Week probably thought I was taking them to Beauvais Airport. The restaurant, a charming if...
13 March 2014
here's your future: frenchie to go, 75002
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In the not-too-distant future, when Paris drops the pretense of being French, Le Fooding will organise several multinational corporatio...
2 comments:
10 March 2014
you've goust to be kidding: goust, 75002
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A magazine I write for sometimes called Punch recently published two interesting pieces about what it means to be a sommelier. The com...
3 comments:
18 February 2014
pioneers: le tagine, 75011
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I started frequenting my friend Marie-Jo Mimoun's adorable Morroccan restaurant Le Tagine about two years ago. Mimoun has a superb ...
1 comment:
11 February 2014
parisian pizza: il brigante, 75018
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As a foreigner in Paris of a certain profusely fertile age group, I often wonder what it would be like to raise a child here. These reve...
6 comments:
07 February 2014
loire salons 2014: la dive bouteille, les penitantes, la renaissance des appellations, les vins anonymes
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If ever you wish to experience an almost out-of-body sense of superfluousness, visit the January Loire salons and tell the natural winem...
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