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30 July 2014
swans' way: aux deux cygnes, 75011
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My friend M is a Vietnamese chef in New York. A year ago I was encouraging him to open a restaurant in Paris. Just think, I beamed. Natu...
3 comments:
23 July 2014
not idiots: le cave, 75011
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I thought it would be bigger news when late last year Inaki Aizpitarte opened a shoebox-sized wine shop between Le Chateaubriand and Le ...
1 comment:
21 July 2014
harvest moon
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I was sitting at Le Bist'Roch in Nuits the other afternoon with my friend R when he brought my attention to a photo of a nude man ...
18 July 2014
n.d.p. in burgundy: la soeur cadette, vézelay
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Despite my enthusiasm for the Yonne town of Vézelay, I had, until a few weeks ago, still yet to pay a visit to La Soeur Cadette and Je...
10 July 2014
consider the perks: restaurant lazare, 75008
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Bad restaurants, like the proverbial Tolstoyan unhappy family, may be awful in an infinity of ways. We dislike them accordingly. But how...
08 July 2014
ponzu scheme: tsubame, ito izakaya, peco peco, 75009
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I'm a bit late in discussing the tsunami of twee Japanese concepts that arrived on my doorstep in the 9ème over the course of last ye...
23 June 2014
a family affair: ma cave fleury, 75002
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I used to complain often about a dearth of actual wine bars in Paris. I defined them as places where quality wine could be enjoyed st...
1 comment:
16 June 2014
n.d.p. in brittany: domaine joanna cecillon, sevignac
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The Native Companion had been hinting that she'd like to visit Brittany for several years. But since no wine is produced there, it ne...
06 June 2014
sancerre bike trip: le square, cosne-sur-loire
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Cosne-sur-Loire is not the most exciting place on earth. It's where life goes on surrounding Sancerre tourism. But it's also whe...
03 June 2014
rock out: la cantine de la cigale, 75018
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A brief moment of on-stage banter at last Monday's Hamilton Leithauser show at La Boule Noire saw the former Walkmen singer - argu...
3 comments:
28 May 2014
oh la honte: ma cocotte, saint-ouen
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For a certain class of Parisian, familiarity with the marché aux puces is a basic mark of distinction. It doesn't matter if very few...
1 comment:
26 May 2014
sancerre bike trip: restaurant la tour, sancerre
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The most expensive fallacy of wine travel, to which I habitually succumb, is to assume that, to experience the full breadth of a given r...
1 comment:
20 May 2014
sancerre bike trip: domaine vacheron, sancerre
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Half our group missed the visit to historical Sancerre standard-bearers Domaine Vacheron. They decided to spend the morning by the pool...
15 May 2014
neighborhood natural: les vinaigriers, 75010
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What a wonderful world we'd live in, if the elusive Great Neighborhood Restaurant existed in numbers commensurate to how often the t...
2 comments:
12 May 2014
sancerre bike trip: le chat, cosne-sur-loire
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The town of Sancerre is a bright, windswept agglomeration of medieval belfries and tasting rooms atop a hill with views for miles around...
09 May 2014
sancerre bike trip: françois cotat, chavignol
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The entrance to Sancerre legend François Cotat 's tasting room must be one of the most sweetly vexing tableaux in the wine world. On...
1 comment:
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