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27 October 2014
les vendanges: champagne jacques lassaigne, montgueux
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When I arranged to harvest with Montgueux Champagne winemaker Manu Lassaigne this September, I had convenience in mind. His is the best ...
15 October 2014
brothers in arms: la cave à michel, 75010
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In writing about Paris restaurant openings, I'm accustomed to grousing about stillborn fads and failed trendhopping. ( Meatballs , an...
10 October 2014
takes a village: le rubis, 75002
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When asked what makes a wine natural, I often reply that a wine is natural when it is bought by natural wine buyers. I'm only being h...
23 September 2014
reborn: vivant cave, 75010
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Given that this is a wine blog, I usually avoid posting on chef career moves. The practice risks stoking the already outsize demand in Pa...
1 comment:
10 September 2014
never-ending terrace: les caves de reuilly, 75012
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Remember that scene in Wayne's World , where Wayne and Garth do impressions of various US states, before being confounded by the unsa...
1 comment:
01 September 2014
coming round again: à la renaissance, 75011
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Like any frequent host in Paris, I've learned to grin vacantly through inarticulate endorsements of "little neighborhood bistro...
2 comments:
27 August 2014
emmanuel lassaigne's "clos sainte sophie"
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When the Native Companion and I first visited Champagne winemaker Emmanuel Lassaigne in Aug. 2012 , the maestro of Montgueux had tantali...
20 August 2014
the anti-nicolas: squatt wine shop, 75011
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A chef friend whose opinions I value highly once raised a sceptical eyebrow when I praised La Retrobottega proprietor Pietro Russano...
18 August 2014
the price of convenience: la boulangerie, 75020
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In trying to descry the origins of the hazy aura known as restaurant hype, we often overlook its simplest element, which is thrift. Pat...
08 August 2014
insiders: monsieur henri, 75003
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I recently lauded fledgling 11ème wine bar Aux Deux Cygnes for bringing a bit of professionalism and style to its gentrification-frontie...
30 July 2014
swans' way: aux deux cygnes, 75011
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My friend M is a Vietnamese chef in New York. A year ago I was encouraging him to open a restaurant in Paris. Just think, I beamed. Natu...
3 comments:
23 July 2014
not idiots: le cave, 75011
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I thought it would be bigger news when late last year Inaki Aizpitarte opened a shoebox-sized wine shop between Le Chateaubriand and Le ...
1 comment:
21 July 2014
harvest moon
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I was sitting at Le Bist'Roch in Nuits the other afternoon with my friend R when he brought my attention to a photo of a nude man ...
18 July 2014
n.d.p. in burgundy: la soeur cadette, vézelay
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Despite my enthusiasm for the Yonne town of Vézelay, I had, until a few weeks ago, still yet to pay a visit to La Soeur Cadette and Je...
10 July 2014
consider the perks: restaurant lazare, 75008
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Bad restaurants, like the proverbial Tolstoyan unhappy family, may be awful in an infinity of ways. We dislike them accordingly. But how...
08 July 2014
ponzu scheme: tsubame, ito izakaya, peco peco, 75009
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I'm a bit late in discussing the tsunami of twee Japanese concepts that arrived on my doorstep in the 9ème over the course of last ye...
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