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29 December 2014
blast from the present: gare au gorille, 75017
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What does it mean for savvy young Parisian restaurateurs to advertise their appreciation for post-war cabaret, as chef Marc Cordonnier an...
16 December 2014
n.d.p. in andalusia: el maestro sierra, jerez
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A depressing reality sinks in when one attempts study of sherry, or, for that matter, of Spanish and Portuguese wine in general: ...
11 December 2014
le fooding, and other howlers
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I take it as a given that I am not part of a target audience for Le Fooding , the French culinary media outlet. If Le Fooding were princi...
2 comments:
09 December 2014
n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas césar florido, chipiona
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I think I know what was going through the Native Companion's mind when she booked us a hotel in Chipiona on our first visit to Andalu...
04 December 2014
n.d.p. in andalusia: la taberna der guerrita, sanlucar
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By way of introducing a series of posts about sherry and various visits to Andalusia, I thought I'd relay a conversation I recently...
2 comments:
01 December 2014
killer instinct: the beast, 75003
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Barbecue, arguably, is for Americans what wine is for the French. What the subjects share is a dialectical emphasis on local cultural t...
03 November 2014
gone fishin' : le verre volé sur mer, 75010
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The stakes are high in Paris when an established, beloved restaurant like cave-à-manger pioneer Le Verre Volé opens a seafood sequel, in...
6 comments:
27 October 2014
les vendanges: champagne jacques lassaigne, montgueux
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When I arranged to harvest with Montgueux Champagne winemaker Manu Lassaigne this September, I had convenience in mind. His is the best ...
15 October 2014
brothers in arms: la cave à michel, 75010
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In writing about Paris restaurant openings, I'm accustomed to grousing about stillborn fads and failed trendhopping. ( Meatballs , an...
10 October 2014
takes a village: le rubis, 75002
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When asked what makes a wine natural, I often reply that a wine is natural when it is bought by natural wine buyers. I'm only being h...
23 September 2014
reborn: vivant cave, 75010
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Given that this is a wine blog, I usually avoid posting on chef career moves. The practice risks stoking the already outsize demand in Pa...
1 comment:
10 September 2014
never-ending terrace: les caves de reuilly, 75012
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Remember that scene in Wayne's World , where Wayne and Garth do impressions of various US states, before being confounded by the unsa...
1 comment:
01 September 2014
coming round again: à la renaissance, 75011
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Like any frequent host in Paris, I've learned to grin vacantly through inarticulate endorsements of "little neighborhood bistro...
2 comments:
27 August 2014
emmanuel lassaigne's "clos sainte sophie"
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When the Native Companion and I first visited Champagne winemaker Emmanuel Lassaigne in Aug. 2012 , the maestro of Montgueux had tantali...
20 August 2014
the anti-nicolas: squatt wine shop, 75011
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A chef friend whose opinions I value highly once raised a sceptical eyebrow when I praised La Retrobottega proprietor Pietro Russano...
18 August 2014
the price of convenience: la boulangerie, 75020
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In trying to descry the origins of the hazy aura known as restaurant hype, we often overlook its simplest element, which is thrift. Pat...
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