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29 January 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas gonzalez byass, jerez
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Don't get me wrong: the Native Companion and I certainly appreciated our visit to Bodegas Gonzalez Byass, which occupies a seemingly ...
14 January 2015
happy returns: simone restaurant & cave, 75013
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Aggrieved chefs and their supporters routinely cite, among the evils of journalism, the neophilic tendency of critics to descend upon a n...
12 January 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: casa bigote, sanlucar
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What little information was available indicated Casa Bigote was among the best restaurants in Sanlucar. In our defense, Sanlucar is a c...
07 January 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: la carbona, jerez
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I tend to distrust large restaurants - places where, if you scream, no one would hear a sound. Even at the grandest, most expensive large...
29 December 2014
blast from the present: gare au gorille, 75017
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What does it mean for savvy young Parisian restaurateurs to advertise their appreciation for post-war cabaret, as chef Marc Cordonnier an...
16 December 2014
n.d.p. in andalusia: el maestro sierra, jerez
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A depressing reality sinks in when one attempts study of sherry, or, for that matter, of Spanish and Portuguese wine in general: ...
11 December 2014
le fooding, and other howlers
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I take it as a given that I am not part of a target audience for Le Fooding , the French culinary media outlet. If Le Fooding were princi...
2 comments:
09 December 2014
n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas césar florido, chipiona
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I think I know what was going through the Native Companion's mind when she booked us a hotel in Chipiona on our first visit to Andalu...
04 December 2014
n.d.p. in andalusia: la taberna der guerrita, sanlucar
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By way of introducing a series of posts about sherry and various visits to Andalusia, I thought I'd relay a conversation I recently...
2 comments:
01 December 2014
killer instinct: the beast, 75003
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Barbecue, arguably, is for Americans what wine is for the French. What the subjects share is a dialectical emphasis on local cultural t...
03 November 2014
gone fishin' : le verre volé sur mer, 75010
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The stakes are high in Paris when an established, beloved restaurant like cave-à-manger pioneer Le Verre Volé opens a seafood sequel, in...
6 comments:
27 October 2014
les vendanges: champagne jacques lassaigne, montgueux
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When I arranged to harvest with Montgueux Champagne winemaker Manu Lassaigne this September, I had convenience in mind. His is the best ...
15 October 2014
brothers in arms: la cave à michel, 75010
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In writing about Paris restaurant openings, I'm accustomed to grousing about stillborn fads and failed trendhopping. ( Meatballs , an...
10 October 2014
takes a village: le rubis, 75002
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When asked what makes a wine natural, I often reply that a wine is natural when it is bought by natural wine buyers. I'm only being h...
23 September 2014
reborn: vivant cave, 75010
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Given that this is a wine blog, I usually avoid posting on chef career moves. The practice risks stoking the already outsize demand in Pa...
1 comment:
10 September 2014
never-ending terrace: les caves de reuilly, 75012
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Remember that scene in Wayne's World , where Wayne and Garth do impressions of various US states, before being confounded by the unsa...
1 comment:
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