not drinking poison in paris

a wine blog

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26 February 2015

sleepwalkin': le bougainville, 75002

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A time-capsule wine bar and restaurant like Le Bougainville , ensconced on the dowdy side of the Galerie Vivienne , perfectly embodies th...
17 February 2015

a few beaujolais debuts

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Tasting new releases with my favorite Beaujolais producers is often kind of embarrassing. After saying hello and getting the usual opti...
12 February 2015

effortless success: martin, 75011

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With Au Passage currently topping many critics most-visited lists (including mine), it's easy to forget that, before James Henry g...
1 comment:
09 February 2015

loire salons 2015: la renaissance des appellations, les penitantes, la dive bouteille, demeter france

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I found myself with a late afternoon to kill in Angers on the Friday before this years' tasting salons. With the aim of avoiding drin...
29 January 2015

n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas gonzalez byass, jerez

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Don't get me wrong: the Native Companion and I certainly appreciated our visit to Bodegas Gonzalez Byass, which occupies a seemingly ...
14 January 2015

happy returns: simone restaurant & cave, 75013

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Aggrieved chefs and their supporters routinely cite, among the evils of journalism, the neophilic tendency of critics to descend upon a n...
12 January 2015

n.d.p. in andalusia: casa bigote, sanlucar

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What little information was available indicated  Casa Bigote was among the best restaurants in Sanlucar. In our defense, Sanlucar is a c...
07 January 2015

n.d.p. in andalusia: la carbona, jerez

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I tend to distrust large restaurants - places where, if you scream, no one would hear a sound. Even at the grandest, most expensive large...
29 December 2014

blast from the present: gare au gorille, 75017

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What does it mean for savvy young Parisian restaurateurs to advertise their appreciation for post-war cabaret, as chef Marc Cordonnier an...
16 December 2014

n.d.p. in andalusia: el maestro sierra, jerez

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A depressing reality sinks in when one attempts study of sherry, or, for that matter, of Spanish and Portuguese wine in general: ...
11 December 2014

le fooding, and other howlers

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I take it as a given that I am not part of a target audience for Le Fooding , the French culinary media outlet. If Le Fooding were princi...
2 comments:
09 December 2014

n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas césar florido, chipiona

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I think I know what was going through the Native Companion's mind when she booked us a hotel in Chipiona on our first visit to Andalu...
04 December 2014

n.d.p. in andalusia: la taberna der guerrita, sanlucar

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By way of introducing a series of posts about sherry and various visits to Andalusia, I thought I'd relay a conversation I recently...
2 comments:
01 December 2014

killer instinct: the beast, 75003

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Barbecue, arguably, is for Americans what wine is for the French.  What the subjects share is a dialectical emphasis on local cultural t...
03 November 2014

gone fishin' : le verre volé sur mer, 75010

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The stakes are high in Paris when an established, beloved restaurant like cave-à-manger pioneer Le Verre Volé opens a seafood sequel, in...
6 comments:
27 October 2014

les vendanges: champagne jacques lassaigne, montgueux

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When I arranged to harvest with Montgueux Champagne winemaker Manu Lassaigne this September, I had convenience in mind. His is the best ...
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