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20 April 2015
time is nye: yard, 75011
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A friend who edits a fashion magazine once said to me, apropos of my blog, "I love it. But I never have any idea what you're tal...
07 April 2015
the return of christophe: amarante, 75012
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Chef Christophe Philippe's new Bastille-adjacent restaurant Amarante, like the cacklingly under-designed eponymous restaurant he m...
3 comments:
01 April 2015
n.d.p. in sardinia: tenute dettori
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It's hard not to have strong reactions to the dense, craggy wines of northern Sardinian estate Tenute Dettori . My own feelings are...
3 comments:
30 March 2015
somm-run: le siffleur de ballons, 75012
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If coverage of some of my favorite Paris addresses is long overdue, it's usually because I inadvertently befriended the staff and / o...
24 March 2015
symbiosis: la cave du daron, 75011
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For better or worse, the fate of tiny 11ème arrondissement caviste and wine bar La Cave du Daron seems intimately linked to its famous ne...
19 March 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas el gato, rota
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On the surface, there appears to be no reason whatsoever for a wine traveler to visit Rota. It is the runt of the sherry towns, alm...
03 March 2015
n.d.p. in the loire: l'ardoise, angers
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Given the tumultuous social jockeying that surrounds dinner invitations during the Loire salons , I hadn't expected to get to han...
26 February 2015
sleepwalkin': le bougainville, 75002
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A time-capsule wine bar and restaurant like Le Bougainville , ensconced on the dowdy side of the Galerie Vivienne , perfectly embodies th...
17 February 2015
a few beaujolais debuts
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Tasting new releases with my favorite Beaujolais producers is often kind of embarrassing. After saying hello and getting the usual opti...
12 February 2015
effortless success: martin, 75011
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With Au Passage currently topping many critics most-visited lists (including mine), it's easy to forget that, before James Henry g...
1 comment:
09 February 2015
loire salons 2015: la renaissance des appellations, les penitantes, la dive bouteille, demeter france
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I found myself with a late afternoon to kill in Angers on the Friday before this years' tasting salons. With the aim of avoiding drin...
29 January 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas gonzalez byass, jerez
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Don't get me wrong: the Native Companion and I certainly appreciated our visit to Bodegas Gonzalez Byass, which occupies a seemingly ...
14 January 2015
happy returns: simone restaurant & cave, 75013
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Aggrieved chefs and their supporters routinely cite, among the evils of journalism, the neophilic tendency of critics to descend upon a n...
12 January 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: casa bigote, sanlucar
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What little information was available indicated Casa Bigote was among the best restaurants in Sanlucar. In our defense, Sanlucar is a c...
07 January 2015
n.d.p. in andalusia: la carbona, jerez
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I tend to distrust large restaurants - places where, if you scream, no one would hear a sound. Even at the grandest, most expensive large...
29 December 2014
blast from the present: gare au gorille, 75017
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What does it mean for savvy young Parisian restaurateurs to advertise their appreciation for post-war cabaret, as chef Marc Cordonnier an...
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