not drinking poison in paris

a wine blog

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25 June 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-claude lapalu, saint-etienne-la-varenne

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Jean-Claude Lapalu occupies an interesting position in the pantheon of contemporary Beaujolais. The son and grandson of winegrowers, he ...
15 June 2015

conscientious objectors: les déserteurs, 75011

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As diners and critics, we're willing to discern greater depths in a chef's plates if he or she has led a swashbuckling lifestyle,...
4 comments:
11 June 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: benoit camus, ville-sur-jarnioux

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Some tasting appointments in Beaujolais are difficult to obtain because a given winemaker's work is so sought-after that he or she ...
05 June 2015

back yard: yard wine bar, 75011

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When I first wrote about Jane Drotter's splendid contemporary bistrot YARD in April 2014 , I couldn't help expressing astonishm...
02 June 2015

rebirth of cool: entrée des artistes pigalle, 75009

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Everything about  Entrée des Artistes Pigalle  proprietors Fabien Lombardi and Edouard Vermynck's previous bar-à-manger on rue de C...
1 comment:
22 May 2015

n.d.p. in burgundy: julien guillot, sagy-le-haut

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Tucked among the fulsome green hills of Sagy-le-Haut is the cellar of Julien Guillot, the charming third-generation winemaker of biodynam...
18 May 2015

off the map: la poudrière, issy-les-moulineaux

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I credit former La Cave de l'Insolite proprietor Michel Moulherat for introducing me to natural wine. His wasn't the closest win...
2 comments:
12 May 2015

side benefits: table à côté, 75012

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Paris has streets that hide in plain sight - overlooked byways that, due to poor sun exposition or traffic redundancy, get circumvented b...
2 comments:
06 May 2015

n.d.p. in abruzzo: 50 years of emidio pepe

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So much has been written about Abruzzese winemaker Emidio Pepe 's majestic montepulciani and the ethereal delicacy of his equally a...
04 May 2015

revolutionaries: bar à vin a.t & restaurant a.t, 75005

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On the surface, not much differentiates Pierre Gagnaire -trained chef Atsushi Tanaka's Restaurant A.T. from most staid Left Bank fin...
1 comment:
20 April 2015

time is nye: yard, 75011

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A friend who edits a fashion magazine once said to me, apropos of my blog, "I love it. But I never have any idea what you're tal...
07 April 2015

the return of christophe: amarante, 75012

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Chef Christophe Philippe's new Bastille-adjacent restaurant Amarante, like the cacklingly under-designed eponymous restaurant he m...
3 comments:
01 April 2015

n.d.p. in sardinia: tenute dettori

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It's hard not to have strong reactions to the dense, craggy wines of northern Sardinian estate Tenute Dettori . My own feelings are...
3 comments:
30 March 2015

somm-run: le siffleur de ballons, 75012

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If coverage of some of my favorite Paris addresses is long overdue, it's usually because I inadvertently befriended the staff and / o...
24 March 2015

symbiosis: la cave du daron, 75011

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For better or worse, the fate of tiny 11ème arrondissement caviste and wine bar La Cave du Daron seems intimately linked to its famous ne...
19 March 2015

n.d.p. in andalusia: bodegas el gato, rota

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On the surface, there appears to be no reason whatsoever for a wine traveler to visit Rota. It is the runt of the sherry towns, alm...
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