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17 August 2015
eternal return: le dome café, 75014
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Upon arriving in Paris, one can take pleasure in almost any characterful feature of the city, regardless of fame or exclusivity. For six ...
8 comments:
11 August 2015
clowns: clown bar, 75011
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To me, clowns aren't funny. In fact, they're kind of scary. I've wondered where this started and I think it goes back to the ...
23 July 2015
the noble savage: sauvage, 75006
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The other evening I had the occasion to follow up on a surprising recommendation I'd received in March from Guardian wine columnist...
1 comment:
20 July 2015
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-paul thévenet, pizay
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On a rainy morning in April, over some barrel samples of his and his son's old vine Morgon and Régnié (respectively), I mentioned to ...
09 July 2015
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jules métras, fleurie
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Young Fleurie-based winemaker Jules Métras released his first wine under his own name this year, a Beaujolais-Villages sourced from tw...
08 July 2015
jordan mackay's beaujolais misinformation
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Jordan Mackay. Someone get this man a glass of Métras. I write now and then for an NYC-based website called PUNCH , whose stated purpos...
5 comments:
02 July 2015
n.d.p. in beaujolais: laurence and rémi dufaitre, saint-étienne-des-ouillières
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A common wine writing trope is to conclude that a wine resembles its maker in some way or another. Nowhere is this less applicable than ...
25 June 2015
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-claude lapalu, saint-etienne-la-varenne
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Jean-Claude Lapalu occupies an interesting position in the pantheon of contemporary Beaujolais. The son and grandson of winegrowers, he ...
15 June 2015
conscientious objectors: les déserteurs, 75011
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As diners and critics, we're willing to discern greater depths in a chef's plates if he or she has led a swashbuckling lifestyle,...
4 comments:
11 June 2015
n.d.p. in beaujolais: benoit camus, ville-sur-jarnioux
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Some tasting appointments in Beaujolais are difficult to obtain because a given winemaker's work is so sought-after that he or she ...
05 June 2015
back yard: yard wine bar, 75011
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When I first wrote about Jane Drotter's splendid contemporary bistrot YARD in April 2014 , I couldn't help expressing astonishm...
02 June 2015
rebirth of cool: entrée des artistes pigalle, 75009
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Everything about Entrée des Artistes Pigalle proprietors Fabien Lombardi and Edouard Vermynck's previous bar-à-manger on rue de C...
1 comment:
22 May 2015
n.d.p. in burgundy: julien guillot, sagy-le-haut
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Tucked among the fulsome green hills of Sagy-le-Haut is the cellar of Julien Guillot, the charming third-generation winemaker of biodynam...
18 May 2015
off the map: la poudrière, issy-les-moulineaux
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I credit former La Cave de l'Insolite proprietor Michel Moulherat for introducing me to natural wine. His wasn't the closest win...
2 comments:
12 May 2015
side benefits: table à côté, 75012
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Paris has streets that hide in plain sight - overlooked byways that, due to poor sun exposition or traffic redundancy, get circumvented b...
2 comments:
06 May 2015
n.d.p. in abruzzo: 50 years of emidio pepe
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So much has been written about Abruzzese winemaker Emidio Pepe 's majestic montepulciani and the ethereal delicacy of his equally a...
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