not drinking poison in paris

a wine blog

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26 October 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: l'auberge du col du truges, le truges

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Living in Beaujolais for the past few months has revealed myriad semi-unknown regional charms. What it has not revealed are many good res...
2 comments:
15 October 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: julie balagny, moulin-à-vent

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Before I met Julie Balagny in early August, I had presumed she was the reclusive type. I don't know where I got this idea. It may ...
08 October 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: la cuvée des copines 2015

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Most wine regions have a colourful word for the traditional end-of-harvest party. In Burgundy it's la paulée . In the Aube it's l...
29 September 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: georges descombes, vermont

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There was a man hanging around in the driveway when my friends and I showed up on bicycles for a rendezvous with Morgon-based winemaker  ...
1 comment:
26 September 2015

buckets, bennes, and quenelles: beaujolais harvests 2015

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I moved to Beaujolais in mid-August to research a book I hope to write on the region's wines. I bought a 50cc scooter to get ar...
4 comments:
17 August 2015

eternal return: le dome café, 75014

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Upon arriving in Paris, one can take pleasure in almost any characterful feature of the city, regardless of fame or exclusivity. For six ...
8 comments:
11 August 2015

clowns: clown bar, 75011

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To me, clowns aren't funny. In fact, they're kind of scary. I've wondered where this started and I think it goes back to the ...
23 July 2015

the noble savage: sauvage, 75006

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The other evening I had the occasion to follow up on a surprising recommendation I'd received in March from Guardian wine columnist...
1 comment:
20 July 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-paul thévenet, pizay

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On a rainy morning in April, over some barrel samples of his and his son's old vine Morgon and Régnié (respectively), I mentioned to ...
09 July 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: jules métras, fleurie

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Young Fleurie-based winemaker Jules Métras released his first wine under his own name this year, a Beaujolais-Villages sourced from tw...
08 July 2015

jordan mackay's beaujolais misinformation

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Jordan Mackay. Someone get this man a glass of Métras. I write now and then for an NYC-based website called PUNCH , whose stated purpos...
5 comments:
02 July 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: laurence and rémi dufaitre, saint-étienne-des-ouillières

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A common wine writing trope is to conclude that a wine resembles its maker in some way or another. Nowhere is this less  applicable than ...
25 June 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-claude lapalu, saint-etienne-la-varenne

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Jean-Claude Lapalu occupies an interesting position in the pantheon of contemporary Beaujolais. The son and grandson of winegrowers, he ...
15 June 2015

conscientious objectors: les déserteurs, 75011

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As diners and critics, we're willing to discern greater depths in a chef's plates if he or she has led a swashbuckling lifestyle,...
4 comments:
11 June 2015

n.d.p. in beaujolais: benoit camus, ville-sur-jarnioux

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Some tasting appointments in Beaujolais are difficult to obtain because a given winemaker's work is so sought-after that he or she ...
05 June 2015

back yard: yard wine bar, 75011

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When I first wrote about Jane Drotter's splendid contemporary bistrot YARD in April 2014 , I couldn't help expressing astonishm...
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