not drinking poison in paris

a wine blog

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23 May 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: justin dutraive, fleurie

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"It's not very charming, as a terroir," says young Fleurie vigneron Justin Dutraive , as we tramp down a muddy path to the ...
12 May 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: julien merle & nathalie banes, legny

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Entering southern Beaujolais winemaker Julien Merle 's cellar in Legny, I noted the low wooden ceilings above the cement vats and ask...
02 May 2016

addicted: drogheria italiana, 75011

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Few industries are as plagued with inefficiencies as that of Italian specialty shops in Paris. Prices are often rapacious. And queues are...
1 comment:
27 April 2016

the f word: the curse of filtration

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A kieselguhr filtration system. I love natural wine. But I understand why the phrase "natural wine" and the sulfur discussion...
2 comments:
25 April 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: xavier benier, saint-julien

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Saint-Julien vigneron and négoçiant Xavier Benier has long been an enigma to me. His unsulfured, unfiltered range of wines are well-repr...
18 April 2016

the grown-ups' table: le petit keller, 75011

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If I were ten years younger, I'd probably spend a lot of time on rue Keller. Recent years have seen a cornucopia of earnest young bar...
13 April 2016

sign of the times: jones, 75011

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When the partners involved in Voltaire gastronome-magnet Restaurant Bones decided to go their separate ways last summer, remaining co-ow...
01 April 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: domaine leonis (raphael champier & cristelle lucca), villié-morgon

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Odenas-born natural vigneron Raphael Champier decamped to a fixer-upper house and cellar on the outskirts of Villié-Morgon late last yea...
2 comments:
30 March 2016

le snacking: au sauvignon, 75007

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Back in early November I asked Beaujolais vigneron Karim Vionnet where he'd be spending the soirée of Beaujolais Nouveau in Paris. H...
1 comment:
28 March 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: les conscrits, villié-morgon

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The most recent book published in English about Beaujolais, as far as I can tell, is British journalist Rudolph Chelminski's wishfu...
25 March 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-gilles chasselay, châtillon d'azergues

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About half an hour into our visit last October, larger-than-life Pierre Dorées vigneron Jean-Gilles Chasselay was serving us barrel tast...
16 March 2016

n.d.p. in le mâconnais: le carafé, mâcon

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The other day my kind friends drove us fifty minutes north of Beaujolais to taste just four wines. The wines, while well-made, were not l...
02 March 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: marcel joubert, quincié

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The prolific and indefatigable Marcel Joubert, arguably the most senior natural winemaker in Brouilly, made his last vintage in 2015. He...
08 February 2016

save this bar: jéroboam, 75011

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Pity the lonely aficionado. Imagine being possessed of knowledge and good taste, in a given subject, and yet being condemned, for want of...
04 February 2016

n.d.p. in beaujolais: nicolas chemarin, marchampt

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Expect to hear a lot of bitching and moaning about Beaujolais in 2015. Alcohol levels are abnormally high for the region, in some cas...
22 January 2016

the seven sins of wine and social media

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It's that time of year again. The Loire salons are approaching, and with them, the annual tempest of facile social media emissions r...
5 comments:
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