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22 August 2016
n.d.p. in lyon: le fleurie, 69007
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Far-flung Lyonnais wine bistrot Le Fleurie exists in a wonderful parallel universe where the old Léon Daudet chestnut - that Beaujolais...
12 August 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: l'auberge du moulin, saint-didier-sur-chalaronne
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During les trentes glorieuses - the thirty-year heyday of post-war French economic expansion, roughly the late forties through the late...
1 comment:
27 July 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-françois promonet, leynes
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Complaining is a national pastime throughout France, along with labour strikes, cigarette-smoking, and pétanque. Vignerons, whose livelih...
02 June 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: hervé ravera, marchampt
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My time in Beaujolais has left me with a strong distaste for the appellation of Beaujolais-Villages. Not for the wines themselves, of c...
2 comments:
23 May 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: justin dutraive, fleurie
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"It's not very charming, as a terroir," says young Fleurie vigneron Justin Dutraive , as we tramp down a muddy path to the ...
12 May 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: julien merle & nathalie banes, legny
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Entering southern Beaujolais winemaker Julien Merle 's cellar in Legny, I noted the low wooden ceilings above the cement vats and ask...
02 May 2016
addicted: drogheria italiana, 75011
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Few industries are as plagued with inefficiencies as that of Italian specialty shops in Paris. Prices are often rapacious. And queues are...
1 comment:
27 April 2016
the f word: the curse of filtration
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A kieselguhr filtration system. I love natural wine. But I understand why the phrase "natural wine" and the sulfur discussion...
2 comments:
25 April 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: xavier benier, saint-julien
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Saint-Julien vigneron and négoçiant Xavier Benier has long been an enigma to me. His unsulfured, unfiltered range of wines are well-repr...
18 April 2016
the grown-ups' table: le petit keller, 75011
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If I were ten years younger, I'd probably spend a lot of time on rue Keller. Recent years have seen a cornucopia of earnest young bar...
13 April 2016
sign of the times: jones, 75011
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When the partners involved in Voltaire gastronome-magnet Restaurant Bones decided to go their separate ways last summer, remaining co-ow...
01 April 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: domaine leonis (raphael champier & cristelle lucca), villié-morgon
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Odenas-born natural vigneron Raphael Champier decamped to a fixer-upper house and cellar on the outskirts of Villié-Morgon late last yea...
2 comments:
30 March 2016
le snacking: au sauvignon, 75007
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Back in early November I asked Beaujolais vigneron Karim Vionnet where he'd be spending the soirée of Beaujolais Nouveau in Paris. H...
1 comment:
28 March 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: les conscrits, villié-morgon
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The most recent book published in English about Beaujolais, as far as I can tell, is British journalist Rudolph Chelminski's wishfu...
25 March 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-gilles chasselay, châtillon d'azergues
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About half an hour into our visit last October, larger-than-life Pierre Dorées vigneron Jean-Gilles Chasselay was serving us barrel tast...
16 March 2016
n.d.p. in le mâconnais: le carafé, mâcon
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The other day my kind friends drove us fifty minutes north of Beaujolais to taste just four wines. The wines, while well-made, were not l...
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