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27 May 2017
pork universe: l'avant comptoir du marché, 75006
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I stand in awe of the sheer cheek of Yves Camdeborde's L'Avant Comptoir wine bars. Camdeborde had the insight to reproduce San Se...
02 May 2017
c'est extra: le bel ordinaire, 75010
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The latter-day service-industry explosion of Paris' 10ème arrondissement is remarkable for its enthusiastically globalized aesthetics...
1 comment:
27 April 2017
out in the street: vignes, 75019
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Vignes' opening party, before the terrace seating was installed. The great legacy of the cave-à-manger neologism has been to turn...
25 April 2017
don't change: osteria ferrara, 75011
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The similarities with between the restaurant Sicilian chef Fabrizio Ferrara opened last fall - Osteria Ferrara - and his former restaur...
30 March 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: gilles paris, chiroubles
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I harvested a few days with Chiroubles-based natural winemaker Gilles Paris back in 2015. It was a disorienting experience. It was the...
1 comment:
23 March 2017
small stakes: le desnoyez, 75020
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A few years ago during the Loire tasting salons I had a brief but memorable conversation with a friend who was then in the initial stages...
1 comment:
28 February 2017
hot bath: le grand bain, 75020
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Chef Edward Delling-Williams is a key figure in the diaspora of mostly-Anglophone chefs emanating from the kitchen of restaurant Au Passa...
2 comments:
20 February 2017
not drinking poison in nice: la merenda
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The Native Companion and I were in Nice for New Year's. Before we returned to Paris I was able to convince her to submit to the r...
1 comment:
10 February 2017
n.d.p. in maconnais: château des rontets, fuissé
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The forecast called for rain, but my friend E and I had passed a perfectly calm, sunny day visiting winemakers around Saint-Amour last J...
1 comment:
31 January 2017
in with the old: chez la vieille, 75001
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I have never quite understood Daniel Rose ' conservative streak. I'm too young to remember the initial, bare-bones Spring in the ...
16 January 2017
n.d.p. in beaujolais: nicolas dubost, saint-germain-sur-l'arbesle
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"It's crazy, how many young winemakers are setting up in Beaujolais," muses southern Beaujolais winemaker Nicolas Dubost , ...
05 December 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: romain des grottes, saint-etienne-des-ouillières
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The man standing there with the huge elderflower bush in his vines is Romain des Grottes. He's a métayer , or sharecropper, working...
1 comment:
17 November 2016
yann bertrand's 1st beaujolais nouveau: "ptit bouchon"
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Yann Bertrand with his demi-muid's of Beaujolais primeur Fleurie's Yann Bertrand made a Beaujolais Nouveau this year from fr...
1 comment:
10 November 2016
beaujolais harvests 2016
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Max Breton's team at the end of day in his old vines at Saint Joseph in Morgon. Anything I post on the blog right now will rightful...
1 comment:
27 October 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: christophe pacalet, cercié
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Négoçiants tend to suffer from an enthusiasm gap among wine drinkers. Compared with the vigneron who grows the grapes he or she turns int...
11 October 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: sylvère trichard & elodie bouvard (séléné), blacé
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I first heard of Blacé-based Beaujolais vigneron Sylvère Trichard while putting together Paris By Mouth's annual " Beaujola...
1 comment:
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