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17 November 2016
yann bertrand's 1st beaujolais nouveau: "ptit bouchon"
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Yann Bertrand with his demi-muid's of Beaujolais primeur Fleurie's Yann Bertrand made a Beaujolais Nouveau this year from fr...
1 comment:
10 November 2016
beaujolais harvests 2016
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Max Breton's team at the end of day in his old vines at Saint Joseph in Morgon. Anything I post on the blog right now will rightful...
1 comment:
27 October 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: christophe pacalet, cercié
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Négoçiants tend to suffer from an enthusiasm gap among wine drinkers. Compared with the vigneron who grows the grapes he or she turns int...
11 October 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: sylvère trichard & elodie bouvard (séléné), blacé
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I first heard of Blacé-based Beaujolais vigneron Sylvère Trichard while putting together Paris By Mouth's annual " Beaujola...
1 comment:
09 September 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jérome balmet, vaux-en-beaujolais
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The tiny cellar space that Balmet shared with his father until this year. Conventional wisdom of Beaujolais geography places the high...
1 comment:
07 September 2016
bait and switch: traiteur ô divin, 75019
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When I spoke to Ô Divin Epicerie proprietor Naoufel Zaïm last January, he mentioned he'd soon be turning a nearby defunct clothing s...
22 August 2016
n.d.p. in lyon: le fleurie, 69007
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Far-flung Lyonnais wine bistrot Le Fleurie exists in a wonderful parallel universe where the old Léon Daudet chestnut - that Beaujolais...
12 August 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: l'auberge du moulin, saint-didier-sur-chalaronne
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During les trentes glorieuses - the thirty-year heyday of post-war French economic expansion, roughly the late forties through the late...
1 comment:
27 July 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: jean-françois promonet, leynes
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Complaining is a national pastime throughout France, along with labour strikes, cigarette-smoking, and pétanque. Vignerons, whose livelih...
02 June 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: hervé ravera, marchampt
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My time in Beaujolais has left me with a strong distaste for the appellation of Beaujolais-Villages. Not for the wines themselves, of c...
2 comments:
23 May 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: justin dutraive, fleurie
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"It's not very charming, as a terroir," says young Fleurie vigneron Justin Dutraive , as we tramp down a muddy path to the ...
12 May 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: julien merle & nathalie banes, legny
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Entering southern Beaujolais winemaker Julien Merle 's cellar in Legny, I noted the low wooden ceilings above the cement vats and ask...
02 May 2016
addicted: drogheria italiana, 75011
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Few industries are as plagued with inefficiencies as that of Italian specialty shops in Paris. Prices are often rapacious. And queues are...
1 comment:
27 April 2016
the f word: the curse of filtration
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A kieselguhr filtration system. I love natural wine. But I understand why the phrase "natural wine" and the sulfur discussion...
2 comments:
25 April 2016
n.d.p. in beaujolais: xavier benier, saint-julien
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Saint-Julien vigneron and négoçiant Xavier Benier has long been an enigma to me. His unsulfured, unfiltered range of wines are well-repr...
18 April 2016
the grown-ups' table: le petit keller, 75011
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If I were ten years younger, I'd probably spend a lot of time on rue Keller. Recent years have seen a cornucopia of earnest young bar...
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