27 September 2010

monday riesling + cod ceviche: quedubon, 75019

The other Monday I found myself back at Quedubon in the 19eme. Partly because my first meal there earlier this month was brilliantly enjoyable, but mostly because Quedubon is one of the only natural-wine-focused restaurant in Paris that is open on Mondays*.

On a Monday night it is simply wonderful to trek to a side street through a light late-summer drizzle and sit down to, say, a blushing plate of mild French-y cod ceviche and a glass of 2007 Domaine Ostertag "Clos Mathis" Riesling.

Off-hour pleasures like these should be so much more regularly attainable. Cod is a simple fish, ceviche is a breeze, and even a cru Riesling like this is invariably underpriced, for what it is. (I.e. a languorous gorgeous honey / brine / kerosene sort of thing, like a sharp-tongued blonde sitting in lamplight.) Unless you live in New York, however, minor gustatory luxuries are sadly often barred until mid-week.

*Sundays are famously impossible to work with no matter what you feel like eating here in Paris. Mondays, seemingly, are only tricky if you're looking for good food: honest cuisine of some heritage prepared by people who care. People who care, I find, like to take Mondays off. (Same goes for that bakery I love so much.) 

Quedubon Production
15, rue du Plateau
Tel: 01 42 38 18 65
Metro: Buttes-Chaumont

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