In keeping with the series' theme of split personalities (or "parallel identities," as Lynch has described them), with Twin Peaks this week the Native Companion and I shared a Mâconnais wine pretty much diametrically opposed to last week's heavenly St. Véran: a self-consciously classic Pouilly-Fuissé from the classic vintage of 2005, by the relatively large, widely lauded Domaine du Chalet Pouilly.
Diametrically opposed, I should say, in all realms but overall quality. Where the Perrauds' wine from last week was sulfite-free and so alive it seemed to swoon around the room, DduCP's Pouilly-Fuissé, while not lacking in personality, is a much more precise, educated creation - sort of a Special Agent Dale Cooper kind of wine.
Pouilly-Fuissé, designated in 1936, is by far the best-known and most sought-after of the Mâcon appellations. The wines have a reputation for possessing much of the pleasure if not all of the structure of the more famous Burgundy appellations. I don't really give a merde about famous appellation names, however, since by and large they're no great index of quality, merely of type.
That said, DduCP's Pouilly-Fuissé is a finely-honed minor wonder of a Mâcon. Went great with some linguine with black trumpet mushroom cream sauce I whipped up. Genial aromas of fresh Granny Smith apple and make-up powder, before a peach-lemon-mineral palate so perfectly balanced it could sleepwalk on a tightrope. A miraculous tiny brine note at the finish prevented the whole thing from being too cold and textbook, sort of like the Agent Cooper character's wide-eyed fixation with DOUGLAS FIRS! (And his steady faith in dream interpretation, also that.)
|Image swiped from softwood.org.|
This remarkable Pouilly-Fuissé is available rather cheaply (18eu) at:
La P'tite Cave
7, rue Port Royal
Tel: 01 47 07 10 91
Becky Wasserman on Domaine du Chalet Pouilly