18 October 2010

beaune & brains: le baratin, 75020

The funny thing about pairing with cervelle de veau is, at least in my case, I'm not necessarily looking for something that will accentuate or highlight particular flavors of brain. With brain I'm actually seeking a wine that, while not totally effacing what's characterful about the organ, will perhaps sand away or obscure some of the ferrous tang that can accompany the taste of brains. 

Me and L
Happily, Jean-Claude Rateau's pure-fruited, violety, luminescent Beaune "Les Prévoles" was already sitting on the table when I joined my friends L and P at Le Baratin the other night. It did the trick very nicely - the wine was delicate enough not to interfere with the pillowy, cloud-like texture of the dish or its subtle tones, but had just enough acidic kick and cat-scratch tannins to distract me from the occasional more pungent flavors. 

JC Rateau, by the by, is a good name to know in Beaune. From what I understand he was the first in Burgundy to adopt biodynamic viticulture, way back in 1979. His precise, floral Beaunes are standbys at the host of brilliant natural wine locations that have flourished in the 19eme and 20eme, Le Baratin foremost among them.  

Le Baratin
3, rue Jouye Rouve
75020 PARIS
Metro: Pyrenees
Tel: 01 43 49 39 70

Related Links: 

A great profile of JC Rateau @ BurgundyReport
A piece on Le Baratin @ WineTerroirs
Le Fooding on Le Baratin

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